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A shooter is usually a gentle thing, a tiny, subtle concoction prepared from an oyster and aromatized sake or clear spirits, often pressed into service as an amuse bouche . A shooter demonstrates a chef's ability to select seafood, to tweeze into existence a small but delightful tableau in a glass and to season in a way that both heightens and respects the flavor of a fresh kumamoto. At Tipple & Brine , the Studio City oyster bar, a shooter is less an appetizer than it is a formidable cocktail, especially when presented as a flight: a trio of small glasses sunk into holes in a wooden board. You pound them — one! two! three! — one sluiced with vodka and horseradish, the next with bourbon and bacon, the third with tequila and smoked roe, and you are all at once tipsy, slightly full and ready for a glass of cold beer. If you are anything like me, you are also wondering why Tipple & Brine doesn't do its oyster luge anymore, but the combination of shellfish and smoky Islay Scotch may never have been one for the ages. 14633 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks

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